Annapolis

Dot, Emily and I have just returned from a magical trip to Annapolis, the state capital of Maryland, learning a lot of new information on the way. For example, it's one of the oldest places in the US and once its capital, with the current state capitol building also having served as the national capitol instead of the building of the same name in Washington DC. Annapolis has many streets of old buildings and lots of great and surprising views around corners - a bit like in Cornish fishing villages.

We took a trip on the harbour and saw many beautiful period and modern waterfront residences. And, just to the east of the centre lies the massive US naval academy - the nautical equivalent of West Point. Members of the public can walk thhrough its precinct after presenting photo ID and the guard on duty was amused to see three Australian driving licenses. The campus was spectacular, housing what amounted to a cathedral sized church with (real) gilt dome and a memorial chamber at the Bancroft residence which would not have looked out of place at Versailles!

There were lots of interesting shops, including one where I bought a tin of 'Embarrasmints' with one George Bush on the lid. We also spent part of the time in a Starbucks coffee shop talking liquid refreshments and also sheltering from a huge storm. So, all-in-all it was a great day out.

AS

Historic Baltimore

Despite the heat - it was as high as 92 degrees (F) today or about 33 (C) - we have been walking around some the city's older districts. These include Fells Point and Federal Hill. Both have lots of small 2-3 three storey row houses, often with highly decorated eaves, and small shops, bars or cafes with a lot of what is called 'character'. They're socially upwardly mobile with a lot of restoration work in progress and many younger inhabitants. Also, there are some pleasant waterfront views, little squares, cobbled streets, shady trees, and a few museums like the one with Baltimore's oldest residence. So, it's all rather nice.

One place we visited twice for a drink is called the 'Daily Grind' - rather apt for a coffee shop. It has a separate entrance for customers with pets, It is also a lesson in economics and sociology as its young clientele sits one to rather ordinary table, most sporting an open lap-top. I canonly guess at what they are doing - perhaps writing their next novel or designing a winter wardrobe.

Look at a few a few pictures.

AS

Repulsing the POMS

Baltimore played a stirring role in the war of 1812-14 between the UK and the US. I bet most of you weren't even aware of this event! Well, the the former was incensed at American attacks on its shipping by local privateers and sent in the navy to teach them a lesson. Most of the action centred on Chesapeake Bay and the first casualty was Washington which was partly burned to the ground. Then the Brits took to Baltimore, then the 3rd largest US city with c. 40,000 inhabitants.

However, there was a strong point between the attacking forces and the city which needed softening up and it's only 3km from where we're staying. Fort McHenry lies at the entrance to the inner harbour region and it was pounded for about 26 hours by naval vessals standing offshore. It's a popular tourist attraction because much of the fort is still intact ... and for some historic reasons. First, the fort with-stood the onslaught well, to the extent that the Brits had to pack up their bat and ball and retreat to Nova Scotia. This 'victory' obviously helped the reputation of both the defenders and the young nation. And finally it created the US national anthem. A bloke named Key was so surprised to see the flag still flying in the morning that he penned the poem later known as the star spangled banner whose original is now in the Smithsonian. Admittedly, it took 117 years for the song to be adopted by Congress during the 1930s depression.

We took the water taxi to the Fort and attended a great AV presentation in the facility's visitor centre. It was a period re-enactement in which one of the participants, a local doctor, described the events. It finished with the theatre's cutains being drawn back to reveal a view over the fort and the broad river leading into Chesapeake Bay and, in the background, a slow crescendo of the 'Star Spangled Banner. It was rather moving as the audience rose and turned to look out over the water.

We clambered in and over the fort, stopping for an interesting presentation by one of the park rangers on the origins and evolution of the US flag. The site is a national historic monument. At the end, he produced a replica of the flag flown at the time - the original is also in the Smithsonian and a team of a dozen or more of us unfurled it to reveal a monster flag with 15 stars in the corner rather than the current 50. We were only allowed to roll it up again after giving correct answers to a series of questions about the event!

AS

Long Journey

Dot and I have just spent our first full day in Baltimore visiting Emily and Greg. It was a fairly gentle experience, mostly shopping and looking at a civil war museum. This is hardly surprising because we are very tired after a marathon journey. We left home in Armidale at 6 am on Friday 20th June and finally arrived in Baltimore at 11.30 pm also on the 20th June.

So that trip might look like 17 hours or so. In practice, it was a lot longer because we crossed the international date line. Moreover, Baltimore is actually 10 hours 'ahead' of Armidale, so the trip was 17.5 hours plus 10 = 27.5 hours. It certainly felt this long!

The museum was interesting because Maryland (and Baltimore) were on or close to the front line for much of the fighting and local sentiments were split in favour of both camps. Lincoln also visited the building where the museum was was housed down on the water-front. However, he was 'in disguise' because of the local troubles.

I'll regale you with some of experiences over coming days.

AS

Awesome Trip

We've just returned from four hectic days on the road. On Thursday we drove to Sydney (about 550 km) and this was very pleasant. The next day, I left where we were staying - Dot's brother's apartment (Dick), for a quick trip to see my stockbroker in the city. We concluded that our self managed superannuation fund is in good shape, but he did persuade me to part with $10,000 for an investment in a company (IMDEX) providing services to oil drilling ventures. Since our investment in Oilsearch is doing so well, it didn't take much persuading! Then it was a quick trip to consult my St Vincent's specialist (Dr Abdullah Omari - a good catholic name) about my thrombosis. He was very happy with my progress and doesn't want to see me again. Then it was a second quick dash across town, this time by taxi to the Domestic terminal to intercept Max, Beck and Rob as they had just flown in from their 3 week trip to Disneyland, Baltimore, Washington and New York ... and places in between. Max was in great form and glad to see us for 90 minutes before flying on to Canberra.

Then there was some shopping, though I was wary of having just spent $10K (about 5K GPB). The next day was also exciting as we went to the 60th wedding anniversary of Dot's Aunt Hazel and Uncle Max. Hazel is Dot's mother's sister and both she and Max are well into their 80s. This little dash - for a 12.30 luncheon - was just 400 km through the Blue Mountains (which are spectacular) and the Central Tablelands through Bathurst and Orange, two largish cities dating back to the mid 19th century gold rushes. After a short stay in Orange, we headed off down the western slopes of the Dividing Range to the little village of Cudal, where Hazel and Max live on the farm they developed over many years - one of Australia's premier mohair goat studs. It's now operated by Doug and Rosie Stapleton (Doug is one of Hazel and Max's sons). I knew Doug while he was doing a doctorate at UNE and Rosie did an honours degree in my department. It was a great occasion and we eventually retired to a classy motel in Orange for the night. Today, Sunday, Dot and I shared the driving back to Armidale via Bathurst, Sofala (an historic gold mining village), Ilford (!), Mudgee (a premier wine-producing area), Ulan (with its enormous open-cut coal mines), Coolah (one of my research haunts), and the Liverpool Plains (one of Australia's richest agricultural areas). The whole trip was scenically brilliant, but tiring as we continually stopped to track down geocaches en route.

The round trip was all up about 1450 km (900 miles)! It's just as well that I back driving (albeit too fast).

AS