AS
Sunday, 19 July 2009
Karst Country
Friday dawned sunny and clear in Ljubljana and we boarded the bus for another hot day on the road. Fortunately we headed for the coast and there wasn't too much grumbling.
The road took us though the famous Karst country with its sink-holes and caverns we did not have time to explore. Then it was on to Trieste on the Adriatic - yet another Schengen experience as we whizzed through un-manned check-points in and out of Italy.
Almost next to Trieste, which is a large port having a significant ship-buildng industry, is the Slovenian port of Koper, where we spent a lot more time. Koper was developed by the Slovenians as a rival to Trieste, but is really rather small by comparison. What it does have is some beautiful buildings and squares in the Venetian style, as shown in the photos, and the University of Primorska, which we visited.
Next came Piran and Portoroz, twin coastal resorts in Slovenian Istria. They have the obligatory marinas and even casinos, which apparently in short supply in nearby Italy or Croatia. Piran is the lovelier of the two, with beautiful buildings, piazzas, churches and towers in the Venetian idiom. And the main square had a large statue of Tartini, the composer, on a plinth in the middle. Portoroz is rather more modern.
The next post has a couple of images of Piran.
AS
AS
The road took us though the famous Karst country with its sink-holes and caverns we did not have time to explore. Then it was on to Trieste on the Adriatic - yet another Schengen experience as we whizzed through un-manned check-points in and out of Italy.
Almost next to Trieste, which is a large port having a significant ship-buildng industry, is the Slovenian port of Koper, where we spent a lot more time. Koper was developed by the Slovenians as a rival to Trieste, but is really rather small by comparison. What it does have is some beautiful buildings and squares in the Venetian style, as shown in the photos, and the University of Primorska, which we visited.
Next came Piran and Portoroz, twin coastal resorts in Slovenian Istria. They have the obligatory marinas and even casinos, which apparently in short supply in nearby Italy or Croatia. Piran is the lovelier of the two, with beautiful buildings, piazzas, churches and towers in the Venetian idiom. And the main square had a large statue of Tartini, the composer, on a plinth in the middle. Portoroz is rather more modern.
The next post has a couple of images of Piran.
AS
AS
A Hot Day
On the day we paralleled the Croatian border, the temperature was about 35C, perhaps a little higher than the famous Britih heatwave of a month ago, which made hilarious headlines in Australia when Nottingham was declared a 'disaster' area after the temperature there hit a scorching 28C.
At 35C, the locals headed to resorts like the one shown and stripped to as little as possible. This facility, about 50m from the Croatian border is designed to attract people from that country, as well as itinerant Germans and Austrians looking for the Dalmatian Coast. The owners had even sighted a rare migratory POM who had come along for their chocolate treatment in which the body is entirely encased in dark chocolate! Someone was sufficently politically incorrect to ask if Barack Oabama woudl be coated in white chocolate were he to turn up. Anyway, I'll give Dot a surprise of this kind if she'll return to Slovenia one day. The resort has numerous other body treatments for the tired and ailing!
The hill in the background is in Croatia.
AS
At 35C, the locals headed to resorts like the one shown and stripped to as little as possible. This facility, about 50m from the Croatian border is designed to attract people from that country, as well as itinerant Germans and Austrians looking for the Dalmatian Coast. The owners had even sighted a rare migratory POM who had come along for their chocolate treatment in which the body is entirely encased in dark chocolate! Someone was sufficently politically incorrect to ask if Barack Oabama woudl be coated in white chocolate were he to turn up. Anyway, I'll give Dot a surprise of this kind if she'll return to Slovenia one day. The resort has numerous other body treatments for the tired and ailing!
The hill in the background is in Croatia.
AS
Schengen Agreement
One of the wonders of the European Union is the Schengen agreement, which these pages have already alluded to. Bascially, it is designed to facilitate cross border excursions or journeys to work for EU territories adjacent to non-EU member states. This picture shows another Schengen border with Slovenia in the foreground and Croatia on the other side of the river, which runs near the foot of the hill. We saw crossing points and the officials didn't seem over-taxed, although I gather that many families are split by the border. Croatia has applied for EU membership and that might occur in the next 3 years.
Max would like the water slides shown in the picture and the old railway cars. As far as I can tell the top of the water slide is in Slovenia and the end in Croatia, but that might be a fault of perspective.
AS
Max would like the water slides shown in the picture and the old railway cars. As far as I can tell the top of the water slide is in Slovenia and the end in Croatia, but that might be a fault of perspective.
AS
Pilloried
Slovenia villages are full of remnants of by-gone eras. The attached picture shows the pillory in one of the ones we visited and apparently it's still in use! In fact I was nearly pilloried myself for all the bad jokes I made about this facility!!
For the record, three of my Portuguese speaking colleagues are admiring it, possibly becauase the Slovene version is better than the one they use. Scott and Ana Maria Bicalho from Rio de Janeiro are standing either side of another Ana from Lisbon.
AS
For the record, three of my Portuguese speaking colleagues are admiring it, possibly becauase the Slovene version is better than the one they use. Scott and Ana Maria Bicalho from Rio de Janeiro are standing either side of another Ana from Lisbon.
AS
Oh Deer!
Slovenia appears full of money making ventures designed to extract cash from tourists, though some are very well done. Some farmer had the idea of importing deer on to his property and turned them into performing animals. He built a large dining / service area to provide facilities for the chalets he designed to accommodate visitors. The surrounding landscape is beautiful and relaxing and he (or rather it appears his wife) taught the deer to come when called. This strategy proved very successful as the pictures show. This venture is in the far east of Slovenia adjacent to the Croatian border.
By the way, note that one of the guest houses is named Pension Rebeka.
AS
Slowly Finding My Way
All my postings for the last two weeks have involved navigating foreign BLOG instructions. First it was Swiss German, then Slovene, and now high German as I'm finishing off a few more contributions from my sojourn in Slovenia in the terminal at Frankfurt. It's annoying that there is a 4 hour wait here. So far I don't think I've made a serious blunder, but there's always the possibility, not least because the spell-checker always uses the local language!
AS
AS
Saturday, 18 July 2009
Podcetrtek
Slovenia is full of tiny villages in picture-postcard settings with castles and religious buildings. These pictures of Podcetrtek show you what I have in mind. The village is set amidst stepp mountains and clear streams. It's worth a visit.
AS
AS
Booze, Pharmacy, and Chocolates
The Olimje Minorite Monastery was an interesting place to visit, and not just on account of extremely humorous and English-speaking friar. He had been in a monastery in Kenya for some year, I gather.
The Monastery buildings, dating from 1550, were high baroque, with an extremely ornate interior as shown in the accompanying pictures. But the inhabitants had a few 'vices', with expertise in distilling 'medicinal' schnapps (I'm trying to import a bottle with me back into Australia and will claim it as a medicine), herbal medicines and chocolate (also in my suit-case)! You wouldn't expect a bunch of respectable clerics to produce anything like common booze would you?
The pharmacy, as it was called, is the third oldest in Europe and dispensed medicines to the monks and villagers made from local ingredients. The chocolate was presumably to while away long evenings and provide the monks with anti-oxidents!
AS
Slovenian Dancing
When I was a kid I remember hearing about Slavonic Dancing, but a couple of days ago we witnessed some Slovenian dancing at Terme Olimje Podcetrtek (which is just about unpronounceable). That's close to the Croatian border.
I gather that the dance troup was hired to serenade us after lunch and that they did brilliantly with a large repertoire of what I took to be traditional dances. The picture show them in action with some of our party looking on.
AS
I gather that the dance troup was hired to serenade us after lunch and that they did brilliantly with a large repertoire of what I took to be traditional dances. The picture show them in action with some of our party looking on.
AS
A Swim in the Adriatic
Today was the second of two wonderful days of field work in Slovenia and I will report fully on them with pictures over the coming days, always remembering that I'll be in transit for something like 32 hours over that period en route for Surfers Paradise and Armidale.
The first trip was essentially along Slovenia's border with Croatia and the second tooks us south through Karst country to Trieste, Koper, and Piran. Trieste isn't even in Slovenia. It's in Italy, but the amazing benefit of the Schengen Accord is that it allows travellers to pass through member frontiers without any passport and customs checks. So, we ducked into and out of Italy at high speed!
Slovenia's Adriatic coast is wonderful - await the pictures in anticipation - and Piran is the best of the locations. I took the opportunity of about 45 minutes of free time to jump into the Adriatic and swim around in the very warm waters. I had come prepared and I didn't do it nude, although a lot of the locals don't seem to mind that attire. Strangely, Piran didn't have a beach at all (except possibly at low tide). I was there at high tide and the only way to get in the water was to jump off big boulders or take a steep flight of steps. However, the water wasn't deep and I could stand on the pebbly bottom easily enough.
Alas, I don't have a picture of me in my birthday suit (with my private parts suitably covered). It's difficult to hold a camera in the water and take a picture of oneself. The weather was warm enough for swimming - a mere 34 degrees! - and brilliantly sunny.
AS
The first trip was essentially along Slovenia's border with Croatia and the second tooks us south through Karst country to Trieste, Koper, and Piran. Trieste isn't even in Slovenia. It's in Italy, but the amazing benefit of the Schengen Accord is that it allows travellers to pass through member frontiers without any passport and customs checks. So, we ducked into and out of Italy at high speed!
Slovenia's Adriatic coast is wonderful - await the pictures in anticipation - and Piran is the best of the locations. I took the opportunity of about 45 minutes of free time to jump into the Adriatic and swim around in the very warm waters. I had come prepared and I didn't do it nude, although a lot of the locals don't seem to mind that attire. Strangely, Piran didn't have a beach at all (except possibly at low tide). I was there at high tide and the only way to get in the water was to jump off big boulders or take a steep flight of steps. However, the water wasn't deep and I could stand on the pebbly bottom easily enough.
Alas, I don't have a picture of me in my birthday suit (with my private parts suitably covered). It's difficult to hold a camera in the water and take a picture of oneself. The weather was warm enough for swimming - a mere 34 degrees! - and brilliantly sunny.
AS
Wednesday, 15 July 2009
A Brush With Adolf
This evening, our conference group had a tour of Maribor castle and we entered the room depicted, which has hosted some famous people. One was the pianist - composer Franz Liszt, and another was Adolf Hitler. The latter, we were told, stood in front of the table and shook hands with a number of SS officers. I wonder what went through the minds of the two Israelis in the audience.
AS
Tuesday, 14 July 2009
A While in Ljubljana
I'm a little behind with my BLOG and out of sequence. Phil and I arrived in Ljubljana late last Tuesday afternoon after a short flight from Zurich. We took the bus into town and it dropped us at the railway station. We asked the driver where our hotel was and it turned out be close by. The Grand Hotel Union Executive (words in that order) was a 100 yo beautiful Art Nouveau structure with elaborate internal decorations and rooms massively large in tune with the age.
During our 3 days / nights. we ate out at the wonderful smorgasbord of pavement restaurants. On the second night it was Slovenian food - rather heavy in the German style, and washed down with a local beer. On other occasions there was an Italian influence. Street life was both plentiful and exotic and peopled with huge numbers of young people: street performers, bars, a basket-ball extravaganza, and so on. That reminds me that I came across a busker in Maribor playing the Didgeridoo! And the streets were closed to traffic except for a lot of bikes.
So, it was a joy to walk around during the day or at night, and along the river in the middle of town or around the backstreets. We rapidly got the impression that it was very safe. The town centre was full of nice old buildings, some with interesting architecture (see picture). There were street markets, grand buildings like the town hall (where the piano recital took place), lots of bridges across the river, an interesting castle precinct reached by a cable train, and spacious squares. The Friday was spent generally looking around, partly on a rain-drenched guided tour, and on our own. Have a look at the pictures attached.
AS
During our 3 days / nights. we ate out at the wonderful smorgasbord of pavement restaurants. On the second night it was Slovenian food - rather heavy in the German style, and washed down with a local beer. On other occasions there was an Italian influence. Street life was both plentiful and exotic and peopled with huge numbers of young people: street performers, bars, a basket-ball extravaganza, and so on. That reminds me that I came across a busker in Maribor playing the Didgeridoo! And the streets were closed to traffic except for a lot of bikes.
So, it was a joy to walk around during the day or at night, and along the river in the middle of town or around the backstreets. We rapidly got the impression that it was very safe. The town centre was full of nice old buildings, some with interesting architecture (see picture). There were street markets, grand buildings like the town hall (where the piano recital took place), lots of bridges across the river, an interesting castle precinct reached by a cable train, and spacious squares. The Friday was spent generally looking around, partly on a rain-drenched guided tour, and on our own. Have a look at the pictures attached.
AS
Sunday, 12 July 2009
Lake Bled
Phil and I took a bus trip today out of Ljubljana to see Lake Bled and it lived up to its billing. It is seriously beautiful, as the slides show, nestled in the Julian Alps which soar to 2800+ m asl. They're not as high as the Alps near Saas Grund, but seriously high by Australian standards. The main attractions are (i) the small lake (Bled) with its island chruch in the middle - an early bastion of Christianity in Slovenia; (ii) the Castle perched high upon a cliff-top beside the lake; and (iii) the many walks around the lake and in the hills behind. The town is also attractive and has many mansions and hotles dotting the shore line. I recommend a visit if you're anywhere near Slovenia.
The first two pictures show Lake Bled, one including a gondola, several of which ply the lake taking visitors to the island church. The other picture shows the church and castle clearly from across the other side of the lake.
The second two pictures show the Julian Alps, which are heavily wooded and still harboured snow in some places. One shows the castle wall on the right and both look across the lake. As you can imagine, the castle was never taken, on account of its great defensive qualities.
The final picture shows Phil and I on the castle wall.
AS
The first two pictures show Lake Bled, one including a gondola, several of which ply the lake taking visitors to the island church. The other picture shows the church and castle clearly from across the other side of the lake.
The second two pictures show the Julian Alps, which are heavily wooded and still harboured snow in some places. One shows the castle wall on the right and both look across the lake. As you can imagine, the castle was never taken, on account of its great defensive qualities.
The final picture shows Phil and I on the castle wall.
AS
Wow!
We went to a concert last night, which I've already reported, and another tonight as part of the Ljubljana festival. Moreover, it was free and this meant a packed room for a piano recital. It was also a must attend for another reason: the performer was Australian - Vivian Choi. She played Debussy, Beethoven, Brahms and Messiaen - all technically challenging and carried the works off with great applomb and virtuosity.
Indeed, she brought the hall down and I was proud to be an Australian. The applause went on for ages and that brought forth an encore which was even more challenging. I tried to encourage her by wearing national dress - shorts and T-shirt - but I'm sure she would have done well without me! The guy sitting two along from me - on the other side of Phil - was likewise casually attired but I didn't notice him until he brought his existence to my attention. Astonishingly he's John Selwood from the University of Manitoba in Canada and I've known him for years! And, he's en route for the same conference as me in Maribor!! He's also now retired like me, but still working! So we're meeting up for dinner tomorrow night in Slovenia's second city.
AS
Indeed, she brought the hall down and I was proud to be an Australian. The applause went on for ages and that brought forth an encore which was even more challenging. I tried to encourage her by wearing national dress - shorts and T-shirt - but I'm sure she would have done well without me! The guy sitting two along from me - on the other side of Phil - was likewise casually attired but I didn't notice him until he brought his existence to my attention. Astonishingly he's John Selwood from the University of Manitoba in Canada and I've known him for years! And, he's en route for the same conference as me in Maribor!! He's also now retired like me, but still working! So we're meeting up for dinner tomorrow night in Slovenia's second city.
AS
Saturday, 11 July 2009
A Strange Concert
After three nights in Switzerland, Phil and I shifted countries and we're now in Slovenia at the head of the Adriatic. The journey was complicated: Saas Grund to Visp by Post-horn bus; Visp to Bern and Zurich by rail through the Lotchberg Tunnel (all 34 km of it); and Zurich to Ljubljana by air (Adria airways).
Well, Slovenia is a picturesque pocket handkerchief sized country not much larger than Wales and far smaller than my home New England region of Australia. We spent the day on the hoof, walking around this small (300,000 population) city first with a tour guide (very useful) and then alone. It's easy to navigate and pedestrian friendly. There are lots of lovely Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings which survived Tito and the communists; many historic churches; lots of pavement cafes and restaurants; several interesting squares; and - in the middle of it all - Ljubljana Castle atop an eminently defensible hill adjacent to the Ljubljana River. The hill has been occupied a long time, but Slovenia has rarely been indpendent. Long part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it has had only brief independence in the last century.
This evening, after dining at a Slovene Restaurant, we headed off to an unusual concert at the beautiful Slovenian Philharmonic Hall. Most people are familiar with name Gustav Mahler, one of the 19th century's most prominent composers. He lived in Ljubljana for a while and I guess the Slovenes like to claim as one of their own. Anyway, we had a Mahler concert, but an unusual one. To start with there was a performance of his piano quartet, whose existence was unknown to me prior to today. It was a fine work. Then there were four songs by his wife Alma Mahler, again unkown to me, though slight works. The second half of the concert contained two works: a famous Strauss waltz and some of Gustav's songs from Des Knaben Wunderhorn. However, the waltz was arranged by Arnold Schonberg for a crazy collection of instruments: piano, string quartet, and harmonium. Then the programmers decided to intersperse the Mahler songs with parts of the Waltz to create a 'new' work whose only coherence was common epoch of the work. Oh well! It was enjoyable.
By the way, do you like this cute building opposite our own Art Nouveau hotel?
AS
Well, Slovenia is a picturesque pocket handkerchief sized country not much larger than Wales and far smaller than my home New England region of Australia. We spent the day on the hoof, walking around this small (300,000 population) city first with a tour guide (very useful) and then alone. It's easy to navigate and pedestrian friendly. There are lots of lovely Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings which survived Tito and the communists; many historic churches; lots of pavement cafes and restaurants; several interesting squares; and - in the middle of it all - Ljubljana Castle atop an eminently defensible hill adjacent to the Ljubljana River. The hill has been occupied a long time, but Slovenia has rarely been indpendent. Long part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it has had only brief independence in the last century.
This evening, after dining at a Slovene Restaurant, we headed off to an unusual concert at the beautiful Slovenian Philharmonic Hall. Most people are familiar with name Gustav Mahler, one of the 19th century's most prominent composers. He lived in Ljubljana for a while and I guess the Slovenes like to claim as one of their own. Anyway, we had a Mahler concert, but an unusual one. To start with there was a performance of his piano quartet, whose existence was unknown to me prior to today. It was a fine work. Then there were four songs by his wife Alma Mahler, again unkown to me, though slight works. The second half of the concert contained two works: a famous Strauss waltz and some of Gustav's songs from Des Knaben Wunderhorn. However, the waltz was arranged by Arnold Schonberg for a crazy collection of instruments: piano, string quartet, and harmonium. Then the programmers decided to intersperse the Mahler songs with parts of the Waltz to create a 'new' work whose only coherence was common epoch of the work. Oh well! It was enjoyable.
By the way, do you like this cute building opposite our own Art Nouveau hotel?
AS
Yes, Swiss Cows have Bells
One of the great things about travel is that it can confirm or deny urban myths. One of those states that cows on high Alpine pastures come with bells attached. Well, it's true as the picture shows.
AS
AS
And so to Allalin
This was one of the most spectacular journeys in my life. Last Wednesday Phil and I went to nearby Saas Fee (pr Fay) - which means cattle in the Saas valley or something similar. Phil's chalet is at Saas Grund (or Saas ground = Saas lower). SG is at 1600 m, or similar to Point Lookout. Saas Fee is at 1800 m, and behind it is the highest range in the Alps - although Mt Blanc is a lone peak marginally higher.
Thus, the Dom is nearly 4600 m and Allalin is one of a group of peaks > 4000 m. Anyway, we took a 3-stage voyage into space starting at the 1800 m level. The first two cable car stages soared steeply to 3000 m (or nearly 10,000 feet asl); the third stage was shorter and involved a train ride through a tunnel!! The angle of slope taken by the train was 45%!! It took us close to 3600 m and a ... wait for it ... a revolving restaurant at Mittelallalin!!! Now, 3600 m is seriously high. It is about 11,700 feet, and believe it or not it was snowing in mid-summer while some hardy souls equipped for the event staggered off to climb to the top of Mt Allalin. Since I was wearing a T-shirt, shorts and sneakers I wisely donned a jumper and decided against the journey.
Look at the views in amazement! It was worth the 18,000 km getting there.
AS
Behind the Chalet
Close to Phil's Chalet is a cable car system on the eastern side of the Saas Valley. It has two stages: one to Kreuzeoden, which is the longer, and a second to Hohsaas (or high Saas) at about 3200 m.
Here are some views showing the first stage from the ground, the view from Kreuzoeden, and some views around Hohsaas. The second picture shows the other side of the valley and Mt Allalin (> 4000m)on the horizon, about which more later.
AS
Here are some views showing the first stage from the ground, the view from Kreuzoeden, and some views around Hohsaas. The second picture shows the other side of the valley and Mt Allalin (> 4000m)on the horizon, about which more later.
AS
Phil's Chalet
Phil has half a Chalet at Saas Grund in the Valais region of Switzerland, but it is comfortable and well-appointed, though small. I attach a view from it and two views of it some views of it to show you the location. If you're interested in venturing that far, let me know and I'll put you in touch with him.
Saas Grund is an excellent jumping off point for the high Alps, and the journey there is awe-inspiring.
AS
Saas Grund is an excellent jumping off point for the high Alps, and the journey there is awe-inspiring.
AS
Wednesday, 1 July 2009
Maxwell's Fifth
Beethoven's fifth is a famous symphony. Now we have Maxwell's fifth (birthday). I paid a quick visit to Canberra last weekend to celebrate the event and make up for last year when we didn't even turn up to his birthday because we were in Baltimore. Dot, unfortunately, could not come as she was planning to go to Canberra this coming weekend. Of course, I went by air, but managed to get some cheap tickets.
Max chose the venue for his birthday meal - a Sushi Bar!! Do you know any other 5 year old who has selected such a venue? Well, he likes Japanese food and he was attracted by the conveyor belt which sweeps dish past diners at a fair lick. No friends came to the meal because his social party was delayed a week to coincide with the release of a kids' film!
Apart from dining, we did all the usual things like shopping, going to the park and a nursery (to buy plants for Emily's newly designed and implemented garden, and - best of all - a visit to CSIRO's Discovery Centre which displays its work. Max got to hold items of fauna (specifically some insects and a turtle), look at skulls through high powered microscopes, put together puzzles, push lots of buttons and wheels, and generally have a great time! He's a very intelligent kid and very inquisitive.
By the way, we gave him a couple of van Gogh starter kits bought back from Amsterdam: artists' paper; water colours; and van Gogh T-shirt to wear when he's painting and that sort of thing. He also recieved a box of Dutch chocolates.
AS
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